Apalachicola, The Forgotten Coast

Allow me to show you where I have been over the past weeks so that you get an idea of my location:

We started in New Orleans, Louisiana – The Green Dot
B) Grand Isle, Louisiana
C) Thibodaux, Louisiana
D) Breaux Bridge, Louisiana
E) Natchez, Mississippi
F) Vicksburg, Mississippi
G) Ocean Springs, Alabama
H) Fairhope, Alabama
I) Gulf Springs, Florida
J) Sandestin, Florida
K) Current Location – Apalachicola, Florida

I selected Apalachicola, Florida as a stopping point because Tim Mcgraw referenced it in his “Southern Voice” track (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdT8Tlzto20);

“Smooth as the hickory wind
That blows from Memphis
Down to Apalachicola
It’s hi Y’all did ya eat well
Come on in I’m
Sure glad to know ya”

It sounded so friendly and it has proved to be as friendly and welcoming as the song suggests.  In fact, I was going to stay one night and extended it to two as Apalachicola was so welcoming.

Apalachicola was established in 1831 and quickly became the third largest Cotton Shipping Port in the Gulf of Mexico.  Its success was due to its location at the mouth of the Apalachicola River which still plays a huge part of the town’s appeal today.

By 1836, 50,000 bales of Cotton were being exported through Apalachicola annually.  By 1840, more than 40 Three Story cotton warehouses lined the downtown waterfront.  By 1853, approximately 140,000 bales of cotton passed through the port of Apalachicola.

The cotton boom of Apalachicola was not to last as first, railroads made it faster and more economical to send the cotton by rail and second, the Civil War, stopped the shipment of Cotton ending Apalachicola’s Cotton industry.

Apalachicola reinvented itself as a home port for a variety of seafood workers, including oyster harvesters and Shrimpers. More than 90% of Florida’s oyster production and 10% of the entire US Oyster is harvested from Apalachicola Bay.

I entered Apalachicola on Florida State 65 through the Apalachicola National Forest.  A pristine forest maintained by the US Parks Department.

Apalachicola is a small, quiet town along a part of the Florida Coast that has certainly been forgotten.  In fact, it is marketed as the “Forgotten Coast”.  The town’s waterfront, along the Apalachicola River, is beautiful as is the town.

The 1st video is state route 65 to Apalachicola and the 2nd video is looking out on Apalachicola River from Water Street in Apalachicola.

Apalachicola River as viewed from Water Street in Apalachicola.

 

 

 

 

Apalachicola’s Oyster industry is, unfortunately, going the way of the Cotton Industry due to a number of environmental issues and over-harvesting.  Once, over 1,000 Oyster Boats Oystered the Apalachicola Bay and today, that number is down to less than 100.

But, the characters and personalities that make Apalachicola so much fun continue to define the community.  I was fortunate enough to find the Apalachicola Ice Company Tavern – A dive bar of the first degree, and I say that with great respect.

The Ice Company was founded in 1885 and with the advent of electricity, went out of business.  However, the proprietors, a couple named James and Erin, opened the old Ice Company warehouse as a tavern a few years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I met Mark at the tavern and it turned out that his daughter, Erin, was the owner with her husband, James.  Under the heading of “don’t judge a book by its cover”, do not judge Mark by his overalls.  Let me tell you a little about Mark;

 

 

 

 

1. Mark was a lead roadie for Hendrick’s, Allman Brothers, Four Tops, etc.
2. Is a licensed riverboat captain and ran large barges up and down the Mississippi River
3. Is now developing an Oyster Farm in Apalachicola in conjunction with Tulane University and the University of Florida and is working towards establishing an Oyster farm that will employ over 500 workers.

These are the personalities that I looked forward to meeting on my adventure and was fortunate enough to have had the opportunity to talk to this gentleman.

On a completely different end of the spectrum, I was in Apalachicola on Easter Sunday and had the opportunity to attend a 7 AM Easter Sunrise Service on the water that was absolutely moving.  The Minister talks about the rising of Jesus as the sun rose over the water.

 

After the sermon, I rode my bike to Carabelle Beach which is 19 miles east of Apalachicola, on the Gulf, and along Route 98.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A very interesting fact about Carabelle Beach is that it was the US Army’s 4th Infantry’s training site for the Normandy invasion:

I bid farewell to Apalachicola, FL.  It was a great two days, reminding me of the grace that is found in believing, the fact that we should not judge people based on their appearance and that small towns sometimes offer the biggest lessons.

Tomorrow, or today, I leave for Perry, Florida as my next stop on my march to Ormond Beach and the Kuendig clan.

Keep Wheeling!