After seeing the Petrified Forest I thought I had seen the “best”, and the same after Canyon de Chelly, Monument Valley, Canyonlands and Arches, and Bryce. However, I have found each of our Southwest national parks is unique and equally beautiful. Zion National Park is no different. Zion is a Hebrew word for Sanctuary and Refuge.
Two quick side-notes before I describe the wonder that is Zion National Park. The first is that the drive from Bryce to Zion was nice. But due to mother nature, I was unable to ride the Zion Park Scenic Byway. This 54-mile road is the spine of the park and is an engineering feat. Unfortunately, 4″ of rain in March, which is usually what the area gets in a year, washed the road out. It will reopen in May.
The second quick side note is an acknowledgment to the National Park Rangers. I have spoken to many over the past few weeks and their pleasant, happy demeanor can be accountable to the fact that they love their job. Working in God’s creation is a special opportunity and as one Ranger informed me, “Going to work is like going to church every day.” These are special people who do so much more than give directions. They inspect and keep trails open, they provide search and rescue support to lost travelers, they monitor the ecosystems to provide up to date reports on environmental change, etc. They are people that I have a new perspective and deeper respect for.
As I have mentioned, each park is unique. From the petrified tree trunks in the Petrified Forest to the Mesas, Spires and Buttes of Monument Valley and the Hoodoos of Bryce. Zion’s unique geology is soaring rock cliffs hundreds and hundreds of feet above the canyon floor. Zion, unlike Bryce, is a true canyon having been created by the flow of the Virgin River.
Again, I was moved to hike the park which is new for me versus my past horses and motorcycles. But, to find sanctuary and quiet and get away from the crowd, hiking is one way to find solitude. My first day I did an easier hike on Watchman Trail and an even easier hike to Lower Emerald Pool. The morning Watchman Trail hike, a three-mile round trip, 500′ elevation, provided views across the canyon.
The afternoon, I took a much easier hike, really a stroll, to Lower Emerald Pool as the Upper Pool trail was closed due to rock slides. While an easy stroll, it did take me to an impressive waterfall that I could walk under – I guess I am big into walking and riding under waterfalls.
In search of smaller crowds, the second day I traveled to the north end of Zion to hike Taylor Creek Trail. This 5 mile, 715′ trail is called moderate and it was not a challenge. However, you do need to recapture muscle memory to enjoy the trail. Let me explain.
Taylor Creek Trail, as its name suggests, runs alongside Taylor Creek. The trail crosses the creek dozens of times. I must admit, the first time I had to cross the creek, not knowing that this would be the first of many, embarrassingly, I took off my shoes and socks and waded across. You had to learn to look for the stones to jump across the creek and keep your feet dry. By the end of the hike, I was jumping the creek like a Mountain Goat (if they jump creeks – I would think that they would be good).
As I walked the trail, the canyon narrowed.
Twice along the trail, I rounded a corner and came across a settler’s cabin built around the 1930s. I could not imagine why these two families would build a cabin this far off the beaten path with little area for farming. They must have existed by hunting and they had an abundance of water – I am sure at times too much.
Zion National Park was founded in 1919 and is truly a national treasure. Zion concludes my tour of the “Grand Circle” of the Colorado Plateau National Parks. This expedition was a bucket list adventure. It surpassed my wildest expectations and the beauty and grandeur of our Parks are breathtaking. I encourage you to find time to visit this amazing part of our country and hike or ride horses as deep into this beautiful land as you can.
Now for something different. Today, I am off to Las Vegas. My trusty Indian is in need of some attention. She has developed a wheeze in her drive belt and I need to have it looked at by “Sin City Indian Motorcycle” ( did not make that up). One quick note about my Indian. You become attached to your motorcycle at a different level than your truck or car. Especially when you are in the desert, with nobody within miles, and you need to count on the machine running smoothly. She has been a trooper.
I am coming to the end of my odyssey with only Route 66 and Sedona left to explore. I then have a quick trip to Tucson to catch up with some great friends and then back to Phoenix and home on May 3rd.
This trip has been amazing – the wonder, sites, and experiences have surpassed my expectations. Thanks for joining me.
Keep Wheeling!
Cruising with Kramer 